Rosh Hashanah: A tale of many courses

L'Shanah Tovah! I hope that everyone had a wonderful Rosh Hashanah/ is getting ready for Yom Kippur. Can't believe how a year has gone by. Certainly didn't think I would be in Israel celebrating the holiday.

For those who don't know, being Jewish is very different in Israel. Zionism and the emphasis on living in Israel. By living in Israel, Zionism believes that's enough. That our connection to the land is what matters. So, on the one hand, you have secular Jews. They don't go to services, don't fast on Yom Kippur, etc.

On the other hand are the Haredim, the very religious. They tend to live in separate communities, they have their own super strict Kosher regulations, and don't do anything on Shabbat (except maybe read, services, and go for walks). Basically, they follow all of the rabbinic decisions through the centuries. It's a very different community.

So, being a progressive Jew, is mostly an anomaly here. There are Reform synagogues, but they tend to be on the coast or in larger cities such as Tel Aviv and Haifa. None seem to be around Beersheba, and I don't have the transportation to take myself to those cities/wanted to go by myself. So my options were
- Secular dinner with a Jewish family
- try and find conservative/orthodox services

I chose the secular path:  I went with an acquaintance, Lauren, with her and her boyfriend to her boyfriend's parent's place 40 minutes north west of me in Moshav Nir Moshe. They have a beautiful house in a small neighborhood surrounded by fields. We got there around 4 pm, as everyone was getting up from their afternoon naps/getting ready for dinner. We ended up chatting, and having some tea. Eventually, I met the whole family: Roi's parents, two sisters, and the three dogs. Everyone was welcoming, although it was hard with the language blocks (this time Hebrew). Lauren was sweet, and helped translate me the gist of the conversation so I at least knew what was going on. I appreciated that immensely.

Dinner was intense. We had a huge mean including

-symbolic foods for new year (apples and honey, challah, and mostly different candies with plays on Hebrew)
-salad course with 5-6 different types of salad and salmon
-Matzah ball and chicken soup with carrots, artichokes and onions
- Chicket, Roast Beef, and Potatoes
- Tea, Coffee, and coffee cake
needless to say... I was really full after that.

That evening I stayed at their place, falling asleep to BBC TV. The next day, we mostly sat around, read, watched tv. They have an amazing cereal here like chex cereal except stuffed with chocolate on the inside. We had lunch, all left overs from the night before (with enough for all 8 of us to eat that 3 more times). Lauren and Roi dropped me off back at Laqiya that evening.

It reminded me of Thanksgiving, family, food, and conversation. I think that's what I miss most is being able to participate in conversations. Who knew a jewish girl loved to talk? Still, Roi and Lauren were wonderful and I enjoyed speaking a bit of French with Roi's mother: she was born in Paris and moved to Israel years ago.

Right now, just enjoying my long weekend that started with Rosh Hashannah. Going to start looking into hebrew classes/taking a class at Ben Gurion University in English. I'll let you know how that goes.

Much love,
KAS

Katie vs Sim Card: so far 0-1

So it turns out you can mess up sim cards....who knew? Somehow I got mine rejected and had to buy another one *grumble* was not happy. contact me if you want my number :) all the calls/texts, no matter from where (even from ol america) are free. its sweet.


Fun recent facts:
- stopped by the elementary school because Aliyahn (Khadra's husband) had to drop off money to Ghadir for snack/lunch (they don't really do lunch here). So I went inside with him before work. Kids always think I'm super exotic and so were constantly staring at me. When we got to Ghadir's classroom she was soo happy to see me (I think I increased her cool factor x10). All the other kids stared/tried to get a reaction out of me. I tried not to do anything for fear of rioting/chaos.

- Going from vegetarian --> meat eater isn't easy. Terrible stomach issues the other day. So I'm cutting back/avoiding again when possible

-I've traveled to another country and I'm....doing business research (Kim and Ellen: I adapted the SGG format for what we're doing here!).

- Signs I'm adjusting: I'm becoming obsessed with Zatar (israeli herb) being in all my food. Even black coffee with sugar (a lot of sugar) is growing on me

Hope everyone has a sweet Rosh Hashannah!
KAS
p.s If you don't know what Rosh Hashannah ask. It's always good to know about other people. But that's a rant about America for another day.

Cell Phones, Israeli Money, and other interesting odds and ends

Exciting news of the day: I have a cell phone! It's pretty basic, but it has a sim card, and it's pay as you go. I was also able to pull out some money from an ATM (fun fact, banks close at like 2-3 in Israel. But now you can call me and it won't cost me a thing (although it will probs cost you... )

my number : 011+ 972+054-3127176 (i think). now in case the internet ends and you worry for my safety (*cough* mom *cough*) you can find me. Although who knows if cell phones will get service. My mom needs something to worry about! Hehe love you.

Other news: i will become the wandering/migrant American in Lakiya. turns out i will be living in different places each month. Soon i will start spending time with someone named Huda. She works part time for Sidreh and also studies at Ben Gurion University, the university of Beersheba. I will stay there a couple nights a week, and help Huda with her English. To be honest, I'm a bit nervous about the moving around, but it will be nice to meet more people and get a more complete idea of life amongst the Bedouin. I'll let you know how that goes.

Humorous notes/differences:

-When people first see me in Lakiya, they assume I'm Israeli. Thus I hear a lot of Shalom and other words I don't understand. Then I pull out my only hebrew phrase: Hi, I don't speak hebrew. 

-Oh the differences in taste. We had pizza last night, with olives, corn, and zatar (an israeli herb that's used on everything)

- Asaan, the eldest son, hurt his arm/wrist (?). His grandmother gave him a traditional remedy: she broke an egg over his injury and wrapped the egg with cloth. Assan must leave it like that overnight to help it heal. Interesting tradition, but really really smelly.

- Students take a test before College called the psychometric. Riham, their eldest daughter, is going to take it in December (side note: they have it one day every season, and in December its on the 25th. Sucks to be Christian I guess). I was helping her practice,and it was ridiculously hard English sentences. They include things on nuclear disarmament,  and electromagnetic rays. I am utterly ashamed at our attempts to teach foreign languages in the states

- you need to have your passport to go into a college. I went onto the Ben Gurion campus (major university of the south) to go to the ATM (see above on banks). The security guy reprimanded me. But they let me through. I had the I'm a confused american look. it helps.

-to all the ladies: don't go into Negliahs: even if men ask you to have a drink, don't do it. Negilahs are the Muslim equivalent of bars: they go to smoke, have a drink (no alcohol because everyone's Muslim). I walked past it the other day unknowingly. Men came out and tried to talk to me. First in Hebrew, then in the local dialect, then in english/MSA. Basically. Here's what happened

Men: Hi, how are you?
Me: I am good how are you?
Men: What is your name?
Me: My name is Katie? What are yours?
Men: *Jumble of names I can't remember* You want to come in and have drink?
Me: No thank you
Men:  Come! Come!
Me: (in arabic) Thank you very much, but not today. *I leave*

Found out later from my host family that was a smart move. Women don't go into the Negilah. It would have gotten awkward reaaaal quick if I had said yes. Plus a large group of men, one woman... I know its a bit irrational, but i'm in a foreign country. I'm not going into a lion's den.

That's the latest from Lakiya. Exciting news: I am going with an acquaintance to Rosh Hashannah dinner! Fun fact: I haven't actually met her face to face yet. All has been through the wonders of the Internet. Things I'm looking forward to for that evening:
meeting Lauren
speaking English and french.
a pool
3 dogs
meeting Israelis
A night out of Lakiya

More on that later. For now. this old lady has to go to bed.
Lilah Tov!
KAS

Culture shock take two!

 this is in response to apple to zipper. It was getting long. so i'm posting it here

I don't think its the land. Actually when i visited years ago, people told me it would feel like coming home. frankly i thought it was a bunch of malarky. and then i got here...and it did. There's just something in this land, more than beauty, it resonates with something inside me. Like it's my magnetic opposite.

Culture shock is the hardest part of travelling for me.But sometimes the shock as hard and as disconcerting as it may be, is good for me. It reminds me again to rely on my friends. It forces me outside my comfort zone and pushes me to be a bigger person. I gain a different perspective on issues of all kinds, from political, to preparing food. I know I won't be the same when I come home, and I think I needed this, to really make decisions about what I want to do next (grad schools, careers, etc).

In the end, cultural adjustments are hard, but it's like running, you know as you huff and puff that the end it will be worthwhile. Accept it, and life gets easier. You just need patience.

But here's a list of some of my favorite things  that are different. Note: this is my experience in one bedouin town and should not represent all Bedouins or the Jewish Israeli society. I don't want to give too broad of assumptions.

• the emphasis on family. i think it's amazing how everyone lives nearby, and it's very tight-nit. It gives a special resonance to the community. Its more than just friendliness, its blood.
• the pace of life. it's slower, people take time to have conversations, tea, or pick people up and drive them to work. Even if it's only 10 minutes, these pauses show how important social ties and community is. Its both affirming of wonderful values and very relaxing.
• the hospitality. People are so friendly and welcoming, even if they can't understand my mediocre Arabic. I can't tell you how many conversations i've had where i understood about 20% of what someone was saying. And yet they don't seem to mind. Also, I can't say how thankful I am for my host family. They are so nice, welcoming, accommodating, and overall making my transition much easier. 

Other things will come in time. I might start putting up lists of funny things that happen here just to give flavor on the odd days. Thanks for the question A to Z. If you have anymore, feel free to ask. I may not make a whole post to it, but I'll try and respond.

Much love as always,
Katie

Stranger in a Strange Land

This phrase has been in my head for awhile now. It resonates with my feelings  of "culture shock" or adjustment that happens when living abroad/immersing myself in another culture. It doesn't matter how many times I travel, it always happens. It's not necessarily a bad thing, but it certainly isn't easy.  I will try and describe it, as best I can. Mostly because its my blog and I want to. It's really impossible to understand unless you've done it. I'm sorry if this becomes convoluted or difficult to follow. I love comments so if you have any questions feel free! I'll try to answer them as best I can.

When you travel, especially from home for a long period of time, you go from being extremely connected to a stranger. For instance, I left my hometown where I had years of friendships, family, stories, of connections on multiple levels to a town I had never heard of. I only sort of speak one of the main languages here. I know almost no one in Israel. I don't want to give you a false picture: I spend plenty of time with people (it's hard to get away actually). But often I don't know what people are talking about. I went from total ease and control of my surroundings to feeling confusion and out of control.

Yet its more than just food, or language, or jet lag. Culture shock makes everything become slightly strange. Cheese (which yes is food) tastes different here. It's still cheese, but its got more of a bitter taste. Clothing, once a fashion statement, must now be thought out. Even though it's really hot here, i wear pants all the time. Also, I have to make sure I cover my shoulders and chest. I could probably go around in a tank top and shorts, but it would be like a girl walking around the mall in a bikini. Even my identity changes. I am no longer Katie Simpson the recent college graduate, sister, or crazy driver. I am Katie Simpson the AMERICAN GIRL. It gives me a lot to think about.

Thinking about this can be both great and awful.  I can reinvent myself in new ways. I try different fashions (and kind of like wearing pants in the heat). I get to look at family from a different light (mom you would love it: kids live next door to their parents.  If we were Bedouin, you wouldn't have to call me. you'd just yell at me through a window). I learn about Israel from a very different perspective.I get to teach others about Reform Judaism, English, and  the weather in Washington DC (we talk about the weather a lot). Then again, I also over think small details. Are my clothes appropriate? Am I responding appropriately? I can get anxious over seemingly small details.  Such is life I suppose, and something else I can work on.

In the states we tend to think of ourselves as individuals, do our own thing, we define ourselves, nobody else.  There's some truth to that: I don't just become a silver puddle outside of social situations (yay 90s american pop culture!). But my friendships, my family, my social and cultural context define me as well. They provide a framework for my own identity and the foundation for my points of view on most things. Right now I feel like I have a foot in two frames. I'm not really in the American frame,but I'm not really in the Israeli Bedouin frame either. I'm not just a stranger but I am estranged from both lands.

I knew this would happen going in. Most of the time, I don't mind it. I see it mostly as a growing experience. Oddly, I feel far more at ease here than I have in other countries like France and India. I always have felt at home here. Nevertheless, I'm still adjusting here, even as I begin to settle (I think?) into a routine. Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to get that off my chest. Let me know what you think!

Much love as always,
KAS

Alive in Lakiya... Full of Bread and Tea

So it's been a few days. Here's an update on what has happened since I left DC:
I traveled for over 24 hours. I had 3 flights with a total of 22 hours to Tel Aviv. And probably slept about 3 hours in total. High points:

• watching the adjustment bureau totally enthralled, and then having 10 reasons why it was utterly ridiculous
  
• Breakfast and coffee in Heathrow, and the caffeine/fatigue high that followed.
• sleeping like a hobo in the Brussels airport (on a bench draped over my stuff)
  
• arriving in Tel Aviv to find that one of the side pockets of my suitcase had broken. on the bright side, i only lost a tube of sun block. on the dark side, i lost a tube of sunblock in a country where it is super expensive
• sleeping 12 hours after arriving 

Also: Bedouin hospitality is amazing. We had this amazing huge lunch the day after I arrived. I'm staying with one of the heads of the organization, Khadra and her family. She has a husband and 4 kids. The eldest, Rina, is 16 and speaks amazing English and I really enjoy chatting with her. Unfortunately, I stink with names and can't remember all of them. She has two boys, and another girl named Rghana (i think/its hard to translate to English). Rghana is hilarious, a real monkey. She's constantly making up songs, dancing, or doing cartwheels.


For a Bedouin family, this is small. Khadra has 9 sisters and most of them have had at least 5 kids. it's similar with Khadra's husband (i swear I'm going to learn every one's names...eventually). They also all generally live near each other. Next door is Khadra's in-laws , and her whole area of Lakiya is filled with just her husband's family. Most people I've met who are Bedouin are somehow related to Khadra or her family. Lakiya, a town of 10,000 is only made up of about 3 families. pretty crazy.



Other than meeting people I have:

• visited Sidreh, met my actual boss, Nicole, and given a brief overview of the weaving center
• had a meeting in Arabic, Hebrew, and English. Lets just say I understood 33% of the meeting
• Went to Tel Aviv (or Tel Abib in Arabic) for a informational meeting on grants from MEPI which is associated with the Embassy in giving NGOs small grants. I even met one of the foreign service people at the Israeli embassy and got her card.  (yeaaah networking)
• drank Arabic coffee, tea, ate falafel and shwarma (vegetarian among Bedouins... not really something to make a fuss about)
• watched the sunrise over Lakiya.
• been eaten alive by mosquitoes (and they are fierce, it actually hurt the first night here)

 Sorry for the rambling. There's just so much going on here. I'll try and write again soon (now that I figured out the internet here it will happen more often)


also, let me know if you want to skype. Right now it looks like I can only do it in the evenings after 8-9 pm here which means it would have to happen at around 1-2 pm Eastern Standard Time (for those in other places, you will have to do your own math).


anyways much love and will write soon,
KAS

And it Begins....

So I'm sitting in the airport, and I figure this blog should begin now. Logistically, it makes sense because I finally have a few hours before I get on a plane. At the same time, I want to have one entry before I get there. When there's so much promise and so much uncertainty.

Don't get me wrong: I'm really excited. I have wanted to work for an NGO in the Middle East since junior year, and I'm doing it! I get paid (since I have years of homework and internships and no money the idea that someone is paying me is pretty sweet). The organization Sidreh is awesome. They focus on economic development for Bedouin Women ( www.lakiya.org). I get to bridge the gap between English speaking visitors and Arabic speaking Lakiya.

At the same time, I'm going to live in a foreign country for at least six months. It's a big investment of time. And there's a lot I'm not sure about. I don't know if my clothes are modest enough (How much of my scoopy shirt is too much?). Am I taking too much stuff? Will my modern standard arabic be enough to learn palestinian colloquial? Will it be culturally ok to run outside? Will the community like me? As you can see, I'm terrified of messing something up. And not being there, makes all the questions just build up, and up.

As I write this, I know I will mess something up. Whether it is in learning Arabic, or in my work for Sidreh, something will go wrong. What really matters is knowing that it's going to be okay. And it will. I will do my best, and that is enough.

Right now that just means to watch all of my luggage (next life goal: reduce ridiculous amount of stuff I have) and just make my next flight. I have 22 hours of transit, and that's just to Tel Aviv. Not sure when I'll get a chance to blog again, but I'm sure I will have a few more exciting stories to tell :)

m'aah salameh (go with peace)
KAS