Thursday, December 29, 2011

Sickness, Time, Self Reflection, and JERUSALEM.

Hello faithful readers/captive audience. I enjoy coming up with creative ways to address you (still funny to think people actually read these entries... but so far I haven't had any complaints. if you do: KEEP QUIET AND GET OUT. jk love you all. but seriously: why are you still reading if you hate it?) I had written a huge post earlier...and it just got deleted. damn you blog.

So: update on my life. After two weeks of sickness: I am healthy! First a wicked head cold that wiped me of energy and then a stomach bug that was only beat by my experience with Indian Ice... gah. After nearly a month without travel I was getting antsy sooo i am now in Jerusalem: the city of many nicknames. The city of gold in hebrew, the sacred place in Arabic, the big mess in Katie. It's a fascinating city, and I hear more English here than anywhere else in Israel. Talk about feeling at home!

Other good news: I AM LEGALLY IN ISRAEL! Tourist visa: extended. Paid: nothing (cuz im jewish...seriously. it's free for jews). AND CAN LEAVE THE COUNTRY WITHOUT PROBLEMS WITH THE POLICE. i'm only slightly terrified of them (although...  imagine meeting future spouse because of a run in with the police. Child of relationship asks: mommy how did you meet daddy? well... mommy had some trouble with the law and daddy was a nice officer who helped her through with these issues...).

So after (finally) getting my visa I hopped on a bus and came north. interesting bus because it went through the west bank and stopped at a lot of settlement towns. Settlements are towns of Israelis who purposefully moved to the west bank. Here's what I noticed:

1. Ext high levels of security, even for Israel. These communities are almost always on top of hills (traditional places of defense). They have a secured gate that patrols who enters and leaves the community, and a lot of israelis soldiers. Essentially: they do not feel safe with their neighbors, which i get. If I were arab, and Israelis were trying to essentially colonize my land in the west bank I would be upset too.

2. Almost everyone I saw was traditional religious. The women covered their hair, the men had on traditional garb such as the black hats, kippot, and peyes (where their sideburns are awk long). Basically these communities are almost all ultraorthodox or haredim. Partly I think because they feel it is their religious duty to make Israel along the biblical boundaries, which include the west bank, and some very holy jewish sites there (including the tomb of many patriarchs/matriarchs).

3. Look exactly like Israeli towns in other parts of Israel. Nice upper middle class homes, parks, decent roads and sidewalks. Essentially: full services/better than most Israeli Bedouins get inside Israel.

I have a lot of problems with these settlements. Politically: they are a huge roadblock to peace, because they are Israelis essentially trying to colonize the land and claim it for Israel. Not cool. Additionally: the security needed for these towns comes from the army. Thus, they are a huge drain on security/on taxpayer money. Which I think is ridiculous for being outside 48 boundaries. Finally, I do not know this about the haredi in the west bank, but many haredim do not work. They study torah and live off of welfare. If that is the case here too: then not only are they a drain because of security, but also drain the welfare system for their lifestyle. Really makes me angry.

But: i'm glad i saw these towns, even for just a bit.

In the end, I got to Jerusalem. I had plans to go exploring with some couchsurfers, but it fell through. Which was okay. I wandered around, made it to the old city. I tried to go to the church of the holy spulchre, but i got lost in the soq. Next time I need to just ask. In the end I went to a musuem, talking about the history of jerusalem with some excavations. It was hard because I had all my stuff with me, and it was killin my shoulders.

In the end, I went and wandered around Jaffa and Ben Yehuda street. Met a cool older guy volunteering in Jerusalem for a year. Had dinner, bought some postcards, and took in what was before me. My observations:

1. Abnormally high number of religious people live in Jerusalem. Makes sense: they go where it's holiest. And that for jews, is Jerusalem
2. A lot of Americans. So much english. I felt very at home oddly
3. While arabs and Jews live in Jerusalem, they live very segregated lives. Somme parts are all arab, some parts are all jewish. Some mixing with shopping. that's it.

Well the thing about America was both comforting and odd. Because of sickness I have had a lot of time for self reflection and i feel so distant from America. Partly because christmas passed without any hubub, and i feel so disconnected from friends (even though we skype...when i harass you. someone should harass me about skyping). But also, America itself just feels foreign. which is weird. Like seeing the trailer for the new movie New Years. It's such an American movie, and that feels odd to me. Like somehow it no longer shows my experiences. Which is true: i am an american, but i'm in Israel living like a Bedouin. sort of. But it's just another stage of living abroad, and it makes me even more curious about how the transition will be when i go home.

The other thing I realized is time and how we truly measure it. It doesn't feel like the end of the year. It doesn't even feel like December for me. All my traditional markers: exams, winter break, channukah, christmas, all fell to the way side. We don't really understand time unless we have markers. Another way: next time you are in the car and not driving, find a way to lay down and look out the window where all you see is blue sky. When you stare at it long enough: you won't feel like you are moving. Why? you need objects to show change in place to tell you you are moving. It's similar with time, except we mark it with events, like holidays, rituals etc. And right now: i feel like im floating. It's not bad, but it's weird.

And yet, I DO miss those holidays. It was sad not being in NC for christmas. It was weird being too sick to try and celebrate channukah. I have said it before and i'll say it again: i miss having a jewish progressive community. People to celebrate the holidays with, to discuss torah with, to be jewish with. It's something that I realize is super important and will be a factor in choosing my next steps after my crazy travel in Israel.

Also: i'm not homeless in Jerusalem. I am actually staying with a client from Lakiya Weaving at her lovely home near the German Quarter (aka nice Anglo area of the city). She's a feminist therapist, her husband is a conservative rabbi, and they have 3 kids, 2 dogs, 2 cats, and 4 chickens. It's a fun house, and i'm looking forward to staying with them for Shabbat. I'll let you know how it goes: they keep shomer shabbas (aka strict shabbat, no work, no electricity, etc). They have english books so i'll be entertained.

alright. it's late here and I need to sleep. love you all and have a happy and healthy new year. and please: stop with the I'm gonna lose x lbs for new years. Focus instead on: i'm gonna eat vegetables 2x/day or something easier. Because you are beautiful as you are. Maybe you wanna be healthier? cool. But loosing weight does not equal healthier person.

anyways, getting off my soap box and into bed. lilah tov loves!
KAS

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